Jeans: 
By Melissa Golden for USA TODAY |
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| Clerk Jason Popps folds jeans at the Lucky Brand Store at Tysons Corner Center in McLean, Va. Sales of traditional jeans are strong, but high-end denim sees declines. |
"Fashion-conscious consumers are spending less in this current environment, but when they shop, they look for products that stand out," says True Religion CEO Jeffrey Lubell. "Our innovative products oftentimes cost more to make, so our strategy does not contemplate reducing our jeans' prices."
True Religion Jeans
Behind The Work: Sony Recycle Project Jeans
Hakuhodo's Kentaro Kimura talks about how a robot dog helped take upcycling to a new level
By: Ann-Christine Diaz, Published: Jan 26, 2010
Sony Recycle Project Jeans
Also, another inspiration was vegetables and sushi. We realized that
vegetables always tasted better at farms and sushi always tasted at
fishing ports, both at the places of origin. We used this notion of
"Farm Fresh" for the communication concept and came up with the Wall
Sale. The best place to sell these jeans would be their place of
origin, where the ad originally ran.
Through this communication, we transformed an outdoor advertising
medium into a point of purchase, along with transforming a disposable
advertising creative into a valuable product.
Were the billboards specially created specifically for the jeans project, or did you come up with the idea after the fact?
No,
the idea of creating JEANS was born after those four billboards were
put on the wall, so the ads were not made for this project. So the
fabric of JEANS is normally used for the billboards. In other words, we
recycled them after their original mission to convey the message of
Sony products.
How long did it take for the jeans to sell out?
1.5 months, from the 24th of September to the middle of November.
Sony Recycle Project Jeans
Lucky, which sells jeans from $99 to $139, is well-positioned for the downturn, says Bill McComb, CEO of Liz Claiborne, which owns Lucky, because it isn't selling at the upper reaches of denim. The company also got a jump-start on competitors by opening specialty shops, where it can control its promotions and displays.
Lucky Brand Jeans for Women
But, as with 7 for All Mankind
7 for all mankind
and True Religion's stand-alone stores, Lucky often finds it has to compete with department stores, which are discounting their jeans faster than they'd like.
Privately held premium-denim company Citizens of Humanity
Citizens Of Humanity
doesn't release sales numbers but, "Our business is not what it was last year," says Chief Operating Officer Gary Freedman. Still, he says, it's better than expected, and the company hopes to steal more sales with its recent introduction of "super stretch denim."
Like its competitors, Citizens is expanding beyond denim. It will offer knit tops for the holiday season, allowing "our customer base to buy products at a lower price."Citizens of Humanity
After all, as retail brand and design expert Ken Nisch notes, you can sell "three or four tops for every bottom." Jeans makers, he says, have to become "lifestyle companies" with non-denim clothes and accessories to thrive.
Fitting a niche
LEVI'S CORDS FOR OPENING CEREMONY
Levi's Cords
Levi's Cords
Levi's Cords
Levi Strauss
Levi Straus
and VF's Lee and Wrangler brands, while affected by the economy, are weathering it better than some at the highest ends. VF reported revenue from Wrangler jeans was up 3% in the first quarter of 2009, and Lee revenue was up 7%.
Levi's non-denim Dockers brand has been hit hard, and several of its retail stores have gone out of business, but Jon Graden, Levi's vice president of brand merchandising, says its jeans sales were stable "with pockets of growth."
But neither company is sitting on its denim-clad duffs. Levi's didn't alter its strategy when the economy began its downward spiral but asked consumers what they wanted in jeans. Among the answers they got — and responded to — were snug skinny-fit jeans, slim-fit jeans that Graden says are "not as snug," as well as new back-pocket treatments. Levi's also is capitalizing on the trend toward "boyfriend jeans," which are snug on the rear and loose in the legs.
Even when you sell $20 jeans, Wrangler spokeswoman Jenni Broyles says, consumers "need a reason to buy."
This spring, Wrangler began offering jeans with a "Comfort Solution," which includes a waistband that expands as you move.
Gap,
Gap
which says denim is its "birthright," is celebrating its 40th anniversary by launching a collection that builds on its expertise, as well as that of designers it has hired away from companies including Joe's and Earl.
"Our goal is to build jeans every bit as good as any premium player," says Gap spokeswoman Louise Callagy.
Gap, which lost many middle-age female customers when its pants went too low-cut several years ago, will offer seven different "fits" for men and seven for women, including "always skinny" and "curvy."
"I really believe they know what they're doing and that they'll take market share," says Black. "And they lost a lot of market share in denim."
Bloomingdale's, which sells 15 different jeans brands, has a department with contemporary jeans that "fit a lot of people but obviously are not going to fit everyone," says Vice Chairman Frank Doroff. "Then we have jeans for women who maybe just can't fit into those."
Among the latter selections, are the "Not Your Daughter's Jeans," which are popular with the 40-and-older set and aren't as low-rise.
With things "rather ho-hum in the industry, denim is definitely a highlight," agrees Liz Sweney, executive vice president of women's apparel at J.C. Penney.
Penney's now sells about 25% more brands of jeans than it did five years ago, including wide-leg dark-denim jeans with cuffs.
"A great-fitting pair of jeans ... gives you incredible self-confidence and self-esteem," says 7 for All Mankind's Gaylord.
DeFrank couldn't agree more. She passed several pairs of jeans along to her 24-year-old daughter recently and hasn't replaced them, more because of time than money.
She expects to return to jeans shopping soon and plans to buy some by Joe's and True Religion, "and then I think I better stop. (My husband) may want me to see a psychiatrist."
This information from USA Today 2009-07-30